Thompson's Water Seal

This gallon can of Thompson's Water Seal will cover 200-300 square feet of pressure-treated decking.

David Beaulieu

Thompson's Water Seal is one of the deck sealers commonly used to protect decks from such menaces as moisture and mildew. If you just had a new deck built, you probably realize that you need to coat it with a deck sealer to protect it from the elements. But whether you choose to use Thompson's Water Seal or another brand, you may feel overwhelmed trying to decide between all the options available. At the heart of the learning process is differentiating between deck sealers and stains.

On their Web site, Thompson's Water Seal states a basic rule-of-thumb for choosing a deck sealer or stain: "the more wood grain you want to see, the more often you will have to re-coat your deck over time." Thus, at one end of the spectrum, we find "clear finish" among the Thompson's Water Seal products:

clear-finishes allow you to see the natural wood grainbut you will have to re-coat more often with clear-finish deck sealers, because that very transparency renders them less effective at blocking UV raysclear-finish deck sealers do protect against moisture and mildewsuch a product is an example of a true deck "sealer"

At the other end of the spectrum for Thompson Water Seal products, we find "solid finish":

solid-finishes create a colored, opaque shield to protect decks not only from moisture and mildew, but also from UV raysyou won't have to re-coat your deck as often, but nor do they allow you to appreciate your deck's wood grainsuch a product is an example of a true deck "stain"

In between these 2 extremes are "tinted finishes" and "semi-transparent finishes," among the Thompson's Water Seal products. For other brands of deck sealer, the corresponding 4 categories may be called "transparent," "semi-transparent," "semi-solid" and "solid." I used a Thompson's Water Seal product called "Waterproofer PLUS CLEAR Wood Protector" (photo) -- a clear finish.

broom or leaf blowerhosemineral spirits, rag, screwdriverroller, polepaint brushlarge panThompson's Water Sealprotective clothing, gloves, goggles

Deck sealers can be applied to new decks 30 days after construction. Sealing a new deck is a breeze -- assuming it hasn't received much use yet -- because it shouldn't be very dirty. Just sweep off any debris (or blow it off with a leaf blower) and hose it off with a garden hose. By contrast, when preparing to seal an older deck, it is often recommended that you use a pressure washer first to remove deep-seated grime. Much more work!

But even new decks, if they rest under messy trees, can require extra work to seal. In sealing my new floating deck, I was reminded once again that Eastern white pine trees, for all their beauty, can be quite a nuisance. Pitch from the pine tree that overhangs my deck fell on the decking and stained it with pitch, meaning I had to get down on hands and knees and scrub off pitch first before I could hose off my deck. I applied mineral spirits to a rag to remove the pitch.

But I wasn't through cursing the pine after removing the pitch. For the tree had also deposited pine needles and broken pieces of pine cone, which lodged between the cracks of my deck. To remove this debris, I had to run a screwdriver down the length of each crack.

After hosing off the deck, wait 48 hours for it to dry before applying the deck sealer -- unless you can find a Thompson's Water Seal product called "Advanced Natural Wood Protector," which requires no waiting period between cleaning and application.

I applied Thompson's Water Seal to my deck using a product called "Twist N Reach," which consists of a paint roller on a telescoping pole. I tried this product in lieu of threading a paint roller on a pole (the typical approach), because I was attracted by the promise of convenience offered by the product's telescoping ability. But I was dissatisfied with the "Twist N Reach," as I found the telescoping mechanism unreliable (it was difficult to keep the joints tight, so the pole kept collapsing in on itself while I was working). In the future, I'll stick to the tried and true method of threading a roller on a pole. Some prefer to spray deck sealer on, using a junky old garden sprayer.

When to Apply Deck Sealers Surface and air temperature must be above 50 (Fahrenheit) during application and for 48 hours thereafterYour forecast should indicate no rain for 24 hours after application

If you own an elevated deck and have anything under it that you wish to protect, now's the time to cover it with a tarp. Otherwise, the Thompson's Water Seal may drip down on it, through the cracks in the decking.

To begin, pour some of the liquid from the Thompson's Water Seal can into a large pan (or a similar container that the roller will fit into easily). Seal deck railings first, using a paint brush. Now thread the roller onto its pole and dip it into the pan to pick up some of the Thompson's Water Seal. Start rolling it onto the decking in the corner furthest away from where you'll be exiting the deck (if your deck has steps, then that's the point where you'll most likely be exiting).

Gradually work your way back to the exit as you spread the Thompson's Water Seal evenly across the decking. The label on the product I used called for only one thin coating. Leave one small area in front of your exit point uncoated. When you've covered all the decking except for that one small area, exit the deck and reach back to apply the Thompson's Water Seal there. Coat steps last.

Drying time is 48 hours. Clean roller, etc. with mineral spirits. When should you re-apply Thompson's Water Seal? Gauge the need for future applications by conducting a "water test," which simply entails splashing water on the decking and observing the results. If the water beads up, you don't yet need to re-seal. But if the water seeps right into the wood, the seal is broken and you need to re-apply Thompson's Water Seal.

Cool Season Grass

Cool season grass thrives in the moderate spring and fall temperatures of the north and northern transition zone. Cool season grasses don't like the heat and can go dormant (turn brown) during extended hot, dry conditions. Supplemental water may be needed to keep the lawn green between rains. Cool season lawns usually contain a mixture of Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass and Fescues, allowing the lawn to adapt to your specific conditions.

A cool season lawn can best be established from seed or sod. When laying sod, it is important to keep it constantly moist until the sod roots into the soil. The best time to seed cool season grass is in the spring or fall, but it will germinate in the summer heat if kept moist.

Kentucky Bluegrass - A fine and tightly knit dark green grass, it is often mixed with other species for best results. It is popular throughout the northern and transition zones for its ability to grow in shady conditions. Bluegrass grows well in loose soil, so if you have heavy clay, aeration is necessary every few years. Mow at a height of 2-3" and your bluegrass should be able to withstand slight drought. A common problem is leafspot diseases, which is characterized by brown borders or tan centers to the leaf, and should be treated with fungicide. Make sure your seed bag label doesn't list Annual Bluegrass, it is a weed.

Perennial Ryegrass - Found primarily in the northern and transition zones, it does need full sun to thrive. Perennial Ryegrass has a medium texture and grows in clumps or bunches but is often blended with fescues and bluegrass for a uniform look and feel. Because of its fast growth it is often used to overseed a dormant lawn in the south, giving the homeowner a green lawn year round. Set your mower height to 2-3" and don't be tempted to save money by getting Annual ryegrass, it is much rougher and much less attractive.

Fine Fescue - An excellent performer in shade and cold, this is often added to fill in where other cool season species fail. It has three varieties; creeping red fescue, hard fescue and chewings fescue. A heatwave of more than a week, could require more care and watering, as high temps stress this grass out. Fine fescue a good choice for high traffic areas and can handle most soil conditions and climates. Plant it in the spring so it grows in early and fast, then mow at a height of 2-3".

Tall Fescue - Usually used in mixes due to it's adaptability, quick germination, and low maintenance. A coarse textured, dense grass that grows in clumps and loves the shade. Tall fescue is extremely wear tolerant and is popular on sports fields and other high traffic lawns.

Read about drought tolerant cool season grasses here

Regeneration meadows

Is your lawn composed of cool-season grasses? If so, could take a beating from the heat which is submitted in the summer. After all, by definition, cool-season grasses crave cooler temperatures in the spring and autumn. But there is something you can do to undo the onslaught of summer. It's called "regeneration meadows" (regeneration grassland with herbs hot season is also possible).

"Ornamental Lawns" are just what it sounds like. Namely, you're sowing grass seed over existing, in order to fill bare patches. Therefore, regeneration meadows makes sense only if the existing grass is abundant enough and healthy enough to be worth keeping. If you currently have only 50% coverage, so you need to rip out the old meadow and start a new lawn from seed.

Since there is no seed sowing on a stretch of open ground, but rather on the existing grass, consider that the seed will be competing with the existing grass. If nothing else, the latter will steal the seed of some sunlight. To give the seeds of a better chance, mow the grass, cut less than you would normally do. Normally, you should cut grass to a height of 3 " -3.5". In this case, reduce the height of 1.5 " -2." Also, bag or rake clippings in preparation for overseeding pastures, although normally you do not. You want to give seeds the best chance to make good contact with the ground, and cutouts would only get in the way.

Another step to take to promote contact between seeds and soil aeration of the nucleus, or "lawn." This step will help reduce thatch, which stands in the way between grass seeds and soil that would like to call home. Core aerators (or "blowers") can be rented from local rental centers.

In more severe cases, it may be necessary to add a layer of potting soil before regeneration. For example, due to the shallow tree roots popping up on the lawn, your layer of topsoil may be too thin. Spread 1/4 "soil projected on an area of such and rake in.

The bag of grass seed that you buy for regeneration meadows should have info on the back about recommended rates onplanting and sowing rates. Note the difference: it is not necessary to disseminate as much seed when regeneration meadows as when you start new meadows.

Grass seed is often sold in different mixtures. " So even if you buy a bag of grass seed that says, ' Kentucky blue grass "(one of the cool-season grasses), what you're buying can be a mixture of different grass seeds. That is why I am not able to say, point blank, that the recommended rate for regeneration meadows for Kentucky blue grass is such and such: would depend on the particular blend of Kentucky blue grass that you bought. For example, for a mixture of Kentucky blue grass, the recommended rate for regeneration lawns could be 1-2 pounds per 1000 square feet that you need to cover. But for another, the rate would be 2-3 kilos.

For the correct functioning of regeneration, use a spreader. Set the spreader rate overseeding recommended. At the same time, apply a starter fertilizer to get better results.

Grass seeds must be watered correctly, in order to germinate. Only use a spray well, as you do not want to create a flood! The soil should be kept evenly moist, which can mean different waterings per day (second time), for several weeks.

After the blades of grass will sprout, still needed a few times per day of water. If you know that your program does not allow this, the time to look into automatic irrigation systems is before regeneration lawns, not after.

Five weeks after the grass has sprouted, apply a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer at the rate recommended; repeat in another six weeks.

The best time for regeneration lawns that have cool-season grasses is in September; the second best time for regeneration Meadows is in March or April.

Learn how to plant a container Garden, discover your personal style of decoration, creating a spa in your bathroom and more.

Landscaping Steps to Climb to Front Door Entrances

In the examples of landscaping for front door entrances that we've considered so far, the ground between the street and the entryway has been level. In such cases, pursuing the objectives of leading the viewer's eye to the entryway and making the route to the house entrance inviting are not a pressing matters. Rather, they are aesthetic considerations -- however admirable. The bottom line is that visitors to your house will eventually find the front door entrance, regardless of the landscaping.

But it's quite a different matter when visitors must ascend a slope to approach your front door entrance. You have a practical, functional challenge with which to deal first and foremost. You must install landscaping that will provide access from the street to the front door entrance. Not only that, but it must be safe and must not encourage soil erosion on the slope. After functionality has been addressed, then you can consider "curb appeal" (aesthetics).

This challenge is usually met by installing landscaping steps, as in the picture above, although some homeowners might prefer a multi-level deck (with stairs connecting the levels). For curb appeal, brick pillars frame the approach to the stairs, and the pillars are topped with pineapple ornaments. The white metal railings tie in with those on the porch above.

All in all, I'd say the homeowners in this case turned a challenge into an opportunity. What could be viewed as a difficult slope to climb instead has become the canvas for an attractive entryway.

Ragweed allergy

Plant Taxonomy classifies as ragweed Ambrosia. Although ambrosia is a very different appearance from Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia), both are responsible for ragweed allergy.

As with many plants considered evil in the 21st century, ambrosia was used medicinally by the inhabitants of the toughest times. But when you think nowadays of the plant, one thing that comes to mind, and that is "ragweed allergy." Together, ambrosia and ambrosia account for most hay fever experienced in North America in autumn. Ragweed allergy symptoms are runny nose and sneezing, itchy eyes.

Goldenrod, another weed, is commonly blamed for causing this "hay fever". But the golden rod is simply a victim of circumstance: it just happens to bloom at the same time of the year (late summer-early autumn) as Ambrosia. Be by far the largest of the two, golden rod has become the scapegoat for ragweed allergy. The fact is that the pollen of goldenrod is sticky and can only be spread by insects, not the wind. On the contrary, Ambrosia pollen floats off easily on the most gentle breezes-much to the regret of your breasts!

Vines Growing on Wall

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When to Plant Trees

I am often asked when to plant trees purchased from the nursery. The question has both a long and a short answer, and I'll begin with the short version. Note that this article specifically addresses when to plant trees in areas with cold winters; if you live in a warm climate, then essentially any time of year except summer is a good time for planting (the summer heat presents too great a threat to young trees).

In general, the best time for planting trees is late winter or early spring. If that doesn't fit your schedule, then aim for autumn. Summer's a bad choice, because the weather's too hot and the actively growing plants too susceptible to damage. Weather also restricts your options in the winter (at least in the North), because the cold causes the ground to freeze. If you've had the foresight to do all your digging ahead of time (before the ground freezes), it's not impossible to plant trees in winter. But unless you can water them sufficiently, early-to-mid winter is not the best planting time, either.

For the long answer to the question of when to plant trees, we'll remember what's been said above -- but then just expand on it a bit. To begin, I need to introduce some vocabulary items:

Planting trees when they're dormant is advisable, since that's when handling them is least disruptive to them. When do they go dormant? In the Northern Hemisphere, they begin to enter dormancy at some point in the autumn and begin to leave it at some point in the spring. Thus the short answer given above to the question of when to plant trees.

However, in the longer version, we need to be more precise by breaking the original question down into two parts: one for deciduous types, another for evergreens. For examples of both, click the photo on your right to access the mini-photo gallery.

In a way, the best time to install deciduous types is more obvious. The dropping of their leaves in autumn signals that they are entering dormancy. The unfurling of buds in spring signals that they are leaving dormancy.

You have more leeway in the matter of when to plant trees that are evergreen. You can undertake the operation earlier in the fall and later in the spring than their deciduous counterparts. However, you'll still want to avoid planting them when it's hot. If it's still hot in your region in late September, hold off till later in the fall. Likewise, if early June brings hot weather to your neck of the woods, plant those evergreens earlier in the spring!

Intense heat is a major enemy to newly planted saplings. But lack of water for their root systems is another. And although you may not think of winter as a dry time -- what with all the snow -- remember, the moisture from the snow can't get to the roots until the snow melts and the ground thaws. Thus in cold climates, winter brings desert conditions of a sort. That's why watering trees properly in fall is important -- regardless of whether you've opted for planting in autumn or in late winter / early spring.

Now that you know when to plant trees, what about the how? Consult my tips for planting and transplanting.

Landscape design

"Landscape design" sounds rather impressive. To be sure, one could spend years studying all the ideas in the field of design of the landscape or garden. But what about the DIY'er who wants to give a front yard a makeover or tinkering with the design of the garden? If you need to spruce up the landscape design of a home you're selling, or if you just want to enjoy a beauty in the privacy of your backyard, might profit from a simple look at the ideas behind the design of the garden, complete with hands-on Project Guide. Let's start with the former:

Have you ever wondered the secrets behind the magic of the landscape? Well, this resource translates "magical," making it understandable for the do-it-yourselfer. Study these photos that illustrate the landscape of design ideas and learn about the concepts of employing professionals.

See photos: Landscape design explained through images

Or maybe you would rather skip the concepts and get up to some projects to beautify your garden? The following resources will allow you to do just that, providing precise instructions and lots of pictures:

How to build garden fountains

How to build rock gardens

How to plant flower

How to plant hedges

Whenever you put something together, are engaged designin humble, however the project. Sometimes we give our design skills for granted, because what we are putting together is so trivial for us that we are no longer aware of the design process. For example, are using design techniques when composing a letter to send to someone. Your "basic elements" to accomplish this task include vocabulary, spelling and grammar. A bit more complex elements, or "principles", build directly on the key elements. Letter-writing principles include transmitting your ideas clearly and run as an individual, intelligent. Your success with these principles will determine largely whether or not your letter reaches its final goal.

And so it is with the design of the landscape. Do-it-yourselfers should first learn the basic elements of design that are the foundation of the discipline of landscape design. These fundamental elements then will serve as building blocks for learning and implementing the most advanced principles for designing a garden in the backyard. These tried and true principles are the cornerstones of the gardens of perfect image of the world.

The basic elements of landscape design are:

These five elements must be considered in the design of softscape to your property, the latter both hardscape consisting mainly of gardens, lawns, shrubs and trees. The formI discuss, the line plot and in this article. Explain the color to use in my article on color theory. As regards scale, this is simply the size of a component relative to adjacent components.

What it can do these terms confusing is the fact that their meanings are intertwined with each other, as we will see on page 2.

Ground Ivy

Creeping charlie (sometimes spelled "creeping charley"), or ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) is an aromatic, perennial, evergreen creeper of the mint family that thrives particularly in moist shady areas, although it will also take some sun. Native to Europe, Glechoma hederacea has naturalized in North America; it is widely encountered in most regions of the U.S. except for the Rocky Mountain states. Part of the reason for the spread of this ground ivy is its rhizomatous method of reproduction. A variegated version of is sold at some nurseries.

Creeping charlie has a squarish stem that varies in length from a few inches to two feet. The color of creeping charlie's leaves also varies, from dark green to purple (note how purple its leaves are in the picture on Page 2). The funnel-shaped flowers of ground ivy have a bluish-purple color, and the plant spreads to form a dense mat over the ground.

But far from viewing creeping charlie as a wild groundcover, landscapers usually consider it a lawn weed and try to get rid of it. Landscapers spray glyphosate-based herbicides (Roundup, for example) on creeping charlie to kill this invasive weed. The University of Minnesota Extension offers a home remedy for killing creeping charlie that involves the use of Borax. With all this effort expended to stop this plant from growing, you may be surprised to learn that creeping charlie was intentionally brought to North America by European settlers. But once you learn about the history of creeping charlie's usage, some of that surprise should dissipate.

Creeping charlie's medicinal qualities have been known since at least the days of ancient Greece and Rome. Galen, for instance, recommended creeping charlie for inflamed eyes, and English herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1607) recommends ground ivy for ringing in the ears, according to Botanical.com, "A Modern Herbal." The same source reports the medicinal properties of ground ivy as being "diuretic, astringent, tonic and gently stimulant. Useful in kidney diseases and for indigestion."

Never is it wise, however, to ingest any plant, medicinal or otherwise, without first becoming thoroughly informed about its properties. If you are not an expert in such matters, you may be unaware that it is only a particular part of the plant that can safely be ingested -- whether as an herbal remedy, a food, or a drink. And speaking of drink, on Page 2 we'll see that creeping charlie served for centuries as an important ingredient in one of the most popular drinks ever invented....

Foxglove Plants

Foxglove plants are classified as biennial: leaves form a rosette close to the ground the first year, succeeded by a spike with blooms the second, and final year. But under favorable growing conditions they often last longer, blooming another year or two beyond what their "biennial" status would warrant. In this case, they may be considered herbaceous perennials. Further complicating any positive life-cycle identification for the novice is the fact that foxglove plants often reseed themselves.

According to the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension, "The name foxglove is from the old English name "foxes glofa." It comes from an old myth that foxes must have used the flowers to magically sheath their paws as they stealthily made their nocturnal raids into the poultry yards of rural folk. The association is natural for the foxgloves grew on the wooded hillside slopes that foxes chose for their dens."

The scientific genus name also refers to the fact that foxglove flowers are just about the right size for you to slip your fingers into them, as the Latin, digitalis literally translates, "measuring a finger's breadth."

As with many poisonous plants, foxglove was traditionally used by expert herbalists for medicinal purposes. Even today, drugs made from foxglove plants are used to strengthen the heart and regulate heartbeat.

Poison Sumac Pictures -- The Leaflets

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Weed Identification

For the action-oriented, gawking at weed identification pictures may seem rather lame. Perhaps as far as they're concerned, they simply don't like a particular "volunteer plant" and are ready to go pull it up or spray it with an herbicide. They won't "dignify" the plant by identifying it, first, before locking horns with it.

What's wrong with such a disdain for identifying the enemy as a preliminary step to doing battle? Plenty, as you probably realize if you're reading this guide. The most basic objection is that it helps to know something about what it is that you're fighting. Proper weed identification can be the gateway to knowledge that has been compiled over the years regarding a particular plant. As superficial as a mere name may seem, without it, you're barring yourself from all kinds of helpful tips and warnings. The purpose of the present guide is not only to help you identify common weeds through photos, but also to introduce you to some of those helpful control tips -- and a few warnings, too.

Often, we approach control from a position of ignorance. As children, perhaps, we're told by someone misinformed on the subject that a particular noxious plant is called such and such, but it turns out to be an erroneous weed identification. I myself was told during my childhood years that a particularly loathsome nuisance growing in my yard was "sumac" when, in fact, it was Japanese knotweed (see picture on right). I later learned its true identity, which is important, since there's an impressive body of literature out there on Japanese knotweed control.

One salient fact that speaks volumes in favor of first identifying your enemy correctly is the fact that not all herbicides are equally effective against all weeds in all situations. If you neglect weed identification prior to spraying your foe, you may be wasting time and/or money.

Also, by studying up on the plant first, you may discover facts about it that will alter your approach in fighting it (for instance, see below for poison ivy). And in some cases, weed identification may even altogether alter your desire for eradication of a particular plant, as you discover its good qualities. Remember a "weed" remains a weed only so long as you consider it undesirable. For that reason, in the following resources, I not only discuss plants that are commonly and justifiably found on homeowners' "hit lists," but also plants whose designation as "weeds" you may wish to reconsider. I also discuss examples of seemingly innocuous plants that may actually be among the worst weeds.

1. Poison Ivy Pictures

Poison ivy can cause more than just an annoying itch. Did you know that you can develop serious health problems from attempting to eradicate poison ivy by burning the vines? And as commonly as one hears people speaking of poison ivy, proper weed identification for this plant is not as common as one might think. Many people needlessly spray the vine, Virginia creeper, thinking it's poison ivy. Worse yet, many others fail to identify the poison ivy that they encounter when enjoying outdoor activities -- walking blindly into it and paying the price, afterwards. For information on poison ivy, please see my identification photo gallery, "Pictures of Poison Ivy":

Pictures of Poison Ivy

2. How to Get Rid of Poison Oak

If you live on the West Coast of the U.S., that "itchy vine" in your backyard is probably poison oak, not poison ivy. For information on poison oak, please see the following resource:

How to Get Rid of Poison Oak

3. Poison Sumac Pictures

Of the "big 3," poison sumac isn't as widely encountered as its 2 relatives, poison ivy and poison oak. But it can give you just as bad a rash. Learn how to identify it by using my photo gallery, "Poison Sumac Pictures":

Poison Sumac Pictures

4. How to Kill Crabgrass

The next two entries won't harm your health, but they are eyesores. The first is the common lawn weed, crabgrass, whose very name suggests how tenacious a foe it is! For information on crabgrass, please see the following resource:

How to Kill Crabgrass

5. Japanese Knotweed Plants

The aforementioned Japanese knotweed may be the most widely detested plant that nobody has ever heard of! Japanese knotweed typically takes over areas of a property where the soil has been disturbed. This perennial weed forms dense stands of bamboo-like canes. So what's the problem? The problem is, when cold weather comes and the plants die, the dead canes remain left behind. In fact, it can take years for them to break down, thus creating an unsightly and unmanageable mess on your landscape. For information on Japanese knotweed, please see the following resource:

Japanese Knotweed Plants

Please continue on to Page 2 for further weed identification resources, beginning with a plant that causes suffering for untold millions every autumn....

What Exactly Is Natural Lawn Care?

Natural lawn care is the use of organic products for your lawn. It is things like not mowing your grass too short so that it has to spend all its energy growing up instead of spreading out. It's choosing the right kind of grass seed for the area you live in so that it doesn't take constant watering to keep it alive. It's choosing decorative plants and drought-resistant plants for your flower gardens. All of these things are involved in creating a beautiful lawn the natural way.

There is a myth that cutting your grass shorter will mean that you have to cut it less often. The truth is that if you cut your grass too short it will grow faster to replace all the sugars that were stored in the part you cut off. When this happens the grass has no time to form rhizomes which is how grass spreads. This can make your lawn appear thin and patchy. Natural lawn care advocates recommend leaving your grass at about 3 inches tall.

Choosing the right grass seed is another important consideration for a naturally beautiful lawn. There are several varieties that grow quickly and spread evenly for almost any location. Some examples of these would be, Turf Alive! ®III Grass Seed with Rhizomes or Northern Turf? Brand Grass Seed Mixture which are created for quick growing lush lawns.

No matter where you live there are native plants that offer beautiful flowers or foliage. Try incorporating these into your flower beds. They will not only grow better than an imported plant, they will take much less care. They are used to the amounts of rain that fall naturally in the area so they may not need any additional watering. Natural lawn maintenance with less work is always a good thing.

Considering making the switch to natural lawn care? See our full line of organic lawn care products at my website.

There, you'll find tips and tricks for getting the greenest, fullest lawn possible using natural lawn care. You'll also find business packages, tools and equipment for all your lawn care needs, whether you are a homeowner, property manager, or full-time lawn care professional.

Find solutions for all your lawn care issues and needs at http://www.worldoflawncare.com

A Hedge Opening as a "Gate" Into the Yard

So far, where the division between the street and one's property has been marked by some sort of physical barrier, we've seen fences and walls. But for those who disdain such "hardscape," you have an alternative that rests squarely in the plant kingdom: hedges. An example is provided in the picture above. Visitors coming from the street must pass through an opening in the hedge to approach the front door entrance, utilizing a flagstone pathway.

Backyard Ice Rink

A backyard ice rink is a wonderful way to spend time with the family, teach children how to skate, and stay active in the cold winter months. A small rink is really not that hard to build if the conditions are right, and of course you reside in a northern climate

When constructed properly, a homemade skating rink will not kill a lawn. Construction techniques will vary slightly depending on the resources available and who is providing their time tested wisdom. Basic, no frills rink construction involves the following:

Start with a 1" base of lightly packed snow. This will act as a barrier between the grass and the ice. Use packed snow, wood boards, or pvc pipe to create a border and provide a minimum 3" lip which will contain the water. The ice should be at least 3" thick to hold an average adult. Apply several light sprinklings of water to freeze before flooding the rink. This ice layer prevents water from soaking through the snow and reaching the grass. A sheet of plastic or tarp can also be used as a liner to prevent water from soaking through to the grass. Once the base and sides are ready, the rink can be flooded. To freeze the ice solid, the temperature should be about 20?F for at least three consecutive days. To fill in holes and cracks, use a water-snow slush as filler and allow it to freeze. Winterkill is most likely to occur in the spring when freezing and thawing occur. When the rink starts melting take measures to speed up melting and draining of the water. Snow banks and boards around the edges of the rink should be removed so the water can run off. Breaking up the ice and spreading out dark materials (like charcoal or Milorganite) may speed up the melting.

The sky's the limit when it comes to the details and extravagancies of a backyard rink. A quick look on the internet will reveal huge, elaborate rinks with lines painted on the ice, scoreboards and home-made Zambonis. Companies like Nice Rink and Rink Rake help the homeowner create the rink of their dreams and websites like backyardrink.net deal with everything backyard rink related.

Foundation Plantings

As mentioned on Page 1, foundation plantings can be divided into three parts. The criteria for selecting landscape shrubbery for foundation plantings will differ, accordingly. I discuss plant selection for each of the three parts below (the discussion will be restricted to the front-door side of your house), beginning with the entryway design. While tastes in foundation planting styles vary greatly, most people agree on one idea: namely, that the focal point of a foundation planting should be the entryway design.

Why should the shrubbery of the entryway design serve as the focal point? Well, why do we festoon the front door and porch with outdoor decorations? Isn't it, in part, to inject a sense of welcome into such a critical area of the property, that transitional area from outdoors to indoors? For the same reason, special importance should be attached to the shrubbery in an entryway design during plant selection.

However, the rationale goes beyond that. Shrubs for foundation plantings should complement the house they adjoin. Thus, just as, architecturally, the front door should be the focal point on that wall of the house, so the foundation shrubs in the entryway design should be the biggest attention-grabbers of the overall foundation planting. Aesthetically, the entryway design and the front door should work hand-in-hand.

But how can we ensure that the foundation shrubs in the entryway design will receive the viewer's focus? Although it can be over-used, many of us are instinctively attracted by symmetry. Such symmetry is often achieved conveniently through the use of container plants, as this landscaping picture with urns shows. A popular plant for such symmetrical arrangements, whether planted in the ground or in a container, is the dwarf Alberta spruce. Dwarf Alberta spruces achieve just enough size to make a statement without getting in the way (not for quite a few years, at least). The fact that they are evergreen shrubs is also helpful, since that means they'll provide visual interest year round.

Smart plant usage at the corners of a house is important, too, since these plants can frame the house, visually. To that end, plant these foundation shrubs (or small trees) far enough away from the corners so that, even at maturity, they won't obscure the corners of the house.

Corner plantings should be taller than the rest. Let scale be your guide, adjusting allowable plant height according to the height of your house.

However, sometimes you'll want to tweak the scale, so as to correct what you might view as a "fault" in the architecture. For instance, perhaps you feel that your ranch-style home gives too "horizontal" an impression. To correct this, plant something tall and skinny at each corner, such as Emerald Green arborvitae trees. Such corner plantings will break up the home's horizontality and lead the eye upwards.

By contrast, it is the verticality of the corners that you may wish to combat with a house that is relatively tall, compared to its width. In this case, a small tree with a horizontal branching habit can soften the home's vertical lines. Dogwoods are an example; a variety that stays short (12'-15'), the pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), is often a good choice for corner plantings.

The remaining foundation shrubbery bridges the gaps in the foundation planting, between the entryway design and the corners. These plants don't enjoy the sexy roles of the plants we've been considering so far, but they should still be selected with a purpose in mind. First and foremost, of course, they should work in harmony with the foundation shrubs we've already been considering. But beyond that, here are some things to keep in mind: Dwarf shrubs are preferable to something that you'll have to prune, if you prefer a low-maintenance landscape design. But don't think that you are limited to shrubs! Ornamental grasses provide another tall-but-not-too-tall option for inserting an element of verticality. Annual flowers and perennial flowers can be installed in front of foundation shrubs, giving you more options for varying textures and injecting color into foundation plantings (see Page 3).

Having shrubbery right up against your house isn't good for the house, the shrubbery, or for you! So keep the following guidelines in mind when planning a foundation planting:

Locate good-sized shrubs (6 feet tall or higher at maturity) in such a way that their mature foliage will remain at least 5 feet away from the house. You can get away with planting shrubs that stay shorter a bit closer to the house. Where you live also makes some difference. In hot, humid climates, you'll want more air circulating between the house and the foundation shrubs, to discourage rot. Adequate spacing between the plants themselves, too, is important, to reduce disease and maintenance.

At least two more reasons readily suggest themselves for keeping foundation shrubs a reasonable distance away from the house:

You'll want adequate access to your house in order to work on it. Foundation shrubs growing right under the eaves of a house would be deprived of rainfall.

On Page 3 we put it all together, discussing landscape design with foundation plants....

Hosta Plants

Hosta plants are herbaceous perennials. The most natural way to group hosta plants is by leaf-color. The foliage of hosta plants can be blue, gold (yellow), or green. Or sometimes, one will find a pleasing blend, as when there's just enough yellow and green to form chartreuse. In addition to all this variety in color, hosta plants are often variegated. For pictures of hosta plants, open the mini-photo gallery by clicking on the picture (below right).

As if all this weren't enough, the leaves of hostas come in a number of sizes and shapes. Shapes can be elongated (sword-shaped, for instance) or something more rounded (such as those with heart-shaped leaves). In some cases, leaves are flat; in others, concave. Finally, leaf surfaces may be smooth or bubbled (the technical term for this bubbly look is "seersuckered"). Hosta plants also produce flowers, and these, too, exhibit variation, both in color and size.

Hostas are usually treated as shade plants, since the colors of their foliage tend to fade if exposed to too much sun. The gold-leafed types of hosta plants are an exception: they will not attain their maximal golden color without receiving quite a bit of sun. By contrast most green-leafed and blue-leafed hosta plants will lose the rich color of their foliage if they receive too much sun. However, as Marie Iannotti notes, since fragrant hostas (see below) need some sunlight for full flower development, you may wish to make an exception for them, else you'll miss out on their wonderful aroma.

Hosta plants are more often grown for their foliage than for their flowers. Such specimens should be grown in partial to full shade.

An exception may be made for Hosta 'Plantaginea,' which will bear white flowers that are highly fragrant, if the plant is given sufficient sunlight. In fact, one of the common names for these hosta plants is "fragrant" hosta plants, and their flowers are larger than those of most hosta plants. Hosta 'Plantaginea blooms in late summer.

Fragrant hosta plants can be grown in planting zones 3-9. At maturity fragrant hosta plants will stand 1'-1 1/2' tall with a spread of 1 1/2'-2'. Grow fragrant hosta plants in a sunny area.

Hosta plants with gold leaves should be planted in full sun to bring out their color fully. That color can range from a true gold to a chartreuse, depending on variety, location in the yard, geographical region, etc. Hosta 'Ground Sulphur' stays under 1' tall, with a slightly greater spread. It blooms in lavender, early in the summer. Zones 3-8.

The blue-leafed hosta plants should all be grown in nearly full shade. Hosta 'Blue Moon' has heart-shaped, bluish-green leaves. A small hosta plant, 'Blue Moon' stays under 1' tall, with a slightly greater spread. The flowers are white and come out in late summer. Grow in zones 3-8. Hosta 'Halcyon' gets a bit bigger (14" tall, with a spread of about 2') than 'Blue Moon' and has lilac-blue flowers.

Variegation in hosta plants is manifested in a couple of different ways. Foliage is termed "medio variegated" when the lighter color (white, a lighter green, or yellow) occurs in the center of the leaf. For example, Hosta 'Undulata Variegata' (zones 3-8) is white in the middle and green at the edges. These hosta plants reach 1'-2' in height, by about the same width. They produce a lavender bloom in early summer. Grow in partial to full shade.

By contrast, when the lighter color occurs on the edge of their foliage, hosta plants are said to be "marginally variegated." An example is Hosta 'Patriot,' grown in zones 3-8. Its leaves are green in the center and white on the edges. These hosta plants reach 1'-1 1/2' in height, with a spread of 2'-2 1/2'. Their lavender blooms appear later than do those of Hosta 'Undulata Variegata'. Grow in partial to full shade.

On Page 2 we'll consider the care of hosta plants....

Voles

The non-poor Vole gets any recognition. Even those who are not lovers know landscaping moles. But most people go through life without ever so much as heard about these pests from look like, let alone control. To make things more confusing, these parasites are sometimes referred to as "Meadow mice" or "field mice". But when it turns out their damage in lawn or garden around your House, you learn quickly that this is no problem of pest control "Mickey Mouse".

Voles construct tunnels well defined, visible, or "passerelle" at or near the surface, about two inches wide. Result Vole tracks from voles eat the grass blades, as well as the constant traffic of numerous small foot beating over the same path. And if any lawn and garden pests can literally "beat a path through the grass due to their sheer numbers, the voles. Rabbits have nothing on this prolific rodent!

Because the voles are not the only animal parasites responsible for tracks in lawn and garden areas, they are often confused with these other parasites that you want to delete – namely, moles. Because they are rarely seen both moles and voles, it makes more sense based on identification signs leave behind, rather than on how to watch the animals. After all, you never can come face to face with these enemies peeps!

Moles produce two types of tracks in your garden. A track runs just below the surface. These are fueling the tunnel and appear as raised ridges running across your lawn. The second type of track runs deeper and moles unite power tunnel in a network. Is the soil excavated from the tunnel that homeowners on their lawns, piled up in mounds that resemble shallow volcanoes. These mounds are a dead giveaway that the problem is not voles, but moles. Voles do not leave any mounds at all.

Perhaps you made a positive identification of the perpetrator: thou hast voles. Or maybe you do voles on your landscape, but you want to find a way to keep it that way. Any category your landscape falls below, we discuss the next step in the Vole control on page 2.

Dry Shade Plants

If you have an area on your property with dry shade and wish to grow plants there, you may quickly come to designate such an area as problematic. Indeed, areas with dry shade pose a dual challenge, since they are lacking in two elements that many plants need in abundant quantities: water and sunlight.

Following is a list of perennials, biennials and bulbs for dry shade, all of which can tolerate a lack of water and sunlight. Such conditions are characteristic of areas under trees or beneath the eaves of north-facing walls. Lack of sunlight is obvious at once when one considers such areas, but one may not as readily recognize the equally challenging lack of water there. In areas under trees, the tree roots suck up much of the available water. And house eaves block large amounts of rain from falling on the ground immediately under them.

Note that "tolerating" dry shade is not the same as "thriving" in it; most of the plants for dry shade listed below will grow better if supplied with average amounts of moisture. Before planting dry-shade areas, you can improve your chances by mixing organic matter (e.g., compost) into the soil, thereby increasing the soil's water-retention. Sandy soils are like sieves and are notorious for quickly losing whatever water may come their way. Mixing compost into such soil is rather like adding pieces of sponge to it.

1. Hosta

Hosta presents a choice that is quite distinct from the other 9 choices of plants for dry shade in this list. They have greater mass than the rest, standing a foot high or taller, with a slightly greater spread. Hosta forms a leafy garden dense enough to choke out weeds. If planted in rows, they are impressive enough to serve as borders. For more on hosta, please see the following resource:

Hosta

2. Liriope Spicata

Liriope spicata also has a feature that distinguishes it from the other plants for dry shade in my list. For liriope looks like a grass (its common name is "border grass", or "lilyturf"), even though it's actually a member of the lily family. But liriope also has a spikey flower, ranging in color from white to lavender. In autumn it bears a dark berry. To learn more about liriope, please consult the following resource:

Liriope Spicata

3. Foxglove

Foxglove, like the next entry (daylilies), is distinguished by its showy floral display. It is also the tallest of the plants for dry shade discussed here. But don't grow foxglove around small children: it's quite poisonous! To learn more about foxglove, please consult the following resource:

Foxglove

4. Stella de Oro Daylily

While "Stella de Oro" truly is a "daylily," in the sense that its individual flowers last only a day, don't be fooled into thinking that you won't get much of a show out of this perennial. Another bloom will be along shortly to replace yesterday's departed beauty. In fact, its ability to re-bloom over a long period makes Stella de Oro daylily perhaps the most popular of the daylilies. Its popularity is also due to its ability to adapt to a wide range of planting zones and conditions, including dry shade. For more information on Stella de Oro daylily, please consult the following resource:

Stella de Oro Daylily

On Page 2 we'll consider the remaining 6 entries in my list of 10 plants for dry shade....

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Annual Plants

Definition:

What makes annual plants "annual" and perennial plants "perennial?" It's all in the life cycle. Botanically speaking, annual plants complete their life cycle in one year:

You place the seeds from last year's flowers in the ground in spring New annual plants sprout from the seeds With proper care, during the course of the summer, these produce flowers Toward the end of the growing season, annual flowers yield seeds -- signaling to the annual plants that their life cycle is complete

Thus the difference between annual plants and perennials. For perennials usually don't produce flowers their first year (grown from seed) but make up for it by flowering more than 1 year. That is, they have a longer life cycle.

Some plants that are perennials in their native (e.g., tropical) lands are treated as if they weren't in colder regions. Here, one might say that usage trumps botany. E.g., lantana plants are, technically, perennial, but they're treated as annual plants in regions far to the north of their ancestral home -- regions too cold for them to complete their life cycle.

Some folks understand this distinction but still have trouble remembering the terminology. If you can't ever seem to remember which is which, use the following as a mnemonic device:

The root in both words, "annual" and "perennial" (i.e., per-annual) is the Latin word for "year," annus Annual plants are thus those that last but a year in their native climes Perennial plants have something extra: that "per" in their name. The per- prefix in Latin intensifies or adds to what comes after it. So perennials live additional years, when compared to annual plants.

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Stone Walkways

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Loropetalum

Plant taxonomy classifies Chinese loropetalum as Loropetalum chinense. "Chinese fringe flower" is listed as a common name, but this is a case where the Latin name is more commonly used in some circles than the common name! Note that loropetalum is often misspelled as "loropetallum" or "lorapetalum."Two Chinese loropetalum cultivars that have been developed for those not content with the white flowers and green foliage offered by the original are: Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum 'Burgundy' Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum 'Ruby'

"Burgundy" may be the best pick for foliage fanatics. When young, the leaves of "Burgundy" are reddish-purple. In summer, its leaves darken, becoming a greenish-purple; but in autumn, the foliage turns a bright red. Its pink blooms stand out well against its foliar color. "Burgundy" reaches a height of 6-10 feet, with a similar width.

Being a true dwarf, "Ruby" makes for a nice compact, rounded shrub, averaging 4' x 4'. Its new foliage is ruby red (thus the name), and its flowers hot pink.

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FAQ on Fence Designs

Fence decorations dress up your structures, converting them from boring to creative. This picture shows a diamond design cut into a fence.

David Beaulieu

Raised Bed Garden Plans

Raised bed gardening, or square foot gardening is popular amongst millions of gardeners worldwide. These raised bed garden plans allow people to build their own, using detailed step by step easy to follow instructions. This is a huge marketplace.

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High Density Gardening

How to design, build, set up, grow with and maintain a High Density Garden to provide you and your family with fresh, wholesome and tasty vegetables.

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Landscaping Pictures: Stone Wall Borders

In the photo above the stone wall is less ambitious; mainly, it provides the structure for a fine decorative border. Here the plants take center stage. But I've seen some very creative stone walls in my time. In my region, rocky New England, stone walls are practically a way of life.

In the next landscape design picture, and the picture that follows it, we'll look at examples of ornamental grasses. Ornamental grasses can be effective at filling in that odd area on the landscape that you're not sure what to do with.

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Red, White and Pin Oak Trees

Oak trees acquire their fall foliage colors later in autumn than do the maples. As such, the poor oak trees have a tough act to follow. Northern red oak trees and pin oak trees make what is perhaps the most valiant attempt to carry on the show started by the maples. The fall foliage performance of white oak trees is often more understated, but the tree is such an exceptional specimen on other counts that it warrants inclusion in any mention of landscaping with oaks.

The oaks generally do not match the inimitable maples as fall foliage specimens. But they do complement the maples, precisely because oak foliage morphs into its autumn colors at a later date than do maple leaves. Long after maple trees are bare, the oaks are still celebrating the glory of fall. If you have the room, plant both a maple and an oak. The maple will give you spectacular color and give it early; the oak will extend the fall foliage season on your landscape.

Pin oak trees (Quercus palustris) are grown in zones 4-8 and their foliage can turn a deep red in fall if conditions are right. Pin oaks often reach a height of 70’ with an almost equal spread. Plant in a sunny area. This flood-tolerant specimen likes a moist soil with an acidic pH. The name “pin” derives from the sharp stubs left over on the trunk after the lower branches die. The crown is pyramidal.

White oak trees (Quercus alba) are so called due to the relatively light color of their bark. Under the right conditions, the fall foliage of these zone 3-9 trees can be reddish-brown, especially for young trees. White oaks often reach 80’ tall, with rounded crowns 80’ in width. Plant in full sun and in acidic soil, as with pin oak trees. Unlike pin oaks, however, white oak trees do not like wet soils. Rather, they are drought-tolerant and need good drainage. Give this large tree plenty of space in which to grow, as well as plenty of time (slow grower).

White oak trees mature into exceptional shade trees. Their strong, straight trunks will grace any lawn with a majesty unmatched by most trees. When given sufficient room to grow, their crowns will dominate a lawn and provide an interesting branching pattern. Their “white” bark is attractive, and they bear elegant acorns.

Northern red oak trees (Quercus rubra) are grown in zones 4-8 and often reach 75’ tall with a similar spread. They live up to their name when conditions are right, bearing dark red fall foliage (reddish-brown under less than ideal conditions). Sun and soil requirements similar to white oak trees (see above), but northern red oaks are faster growers than are white oak trees.

Sawtooth oak trees (Quercus acutissima) turn yellow in the autumn and, eventually, golden brown. At maturity it reaches 40'-50', with a spread somewhat greater than that -- meaning it's an ideal shade tree. It's also a fast-grower, an important trait for people in a hurry for shade. Sawtooth oak trees like full sun but aren't fussy about soil. They are grown in zones 5-9.

Fall Foliage of Ash Trees
Fall Foliage of Aspen Trees
Fall Foliage of Beech Trees
Fall Foliage of Birch Trees
Fall Foliage of Dogwood Trees
Fall Foliage of Japanese Maple Trees
Fall Foliage of Maple Trees
Fall Foliage of Shagbark Hickory Trees
Fall Foliage of Sweetgum Trees
Fall Foliage of Sumac Trees
Fall Foliage of Ginkgo Biloba Trees
Fall Foliage of Tulip Trees

Herb Gardening Success

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Growing Fresh Tomatoes

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Simple Landscaping Ideas

Are you convinced your yard needs a makeover? Would a few simple landscaping ideas be enough to point you in the right direction? Sometimes, that's all the DIYer needs: specific, easy-to-implement recommendations to inspire action.

From designing front, back and side yards to how to start a garden, consult my simple landscaping ideas to learn ways to improve your yard. Each article presented below is just a starting point; follow the links within the articles to access more detailed information on each topic. If you'd like to skip right to the pictures, scroll down to section 5.

David Beaulieu

These 10 simple landscaping ideas will show homeowners how to improve the most visible section of their properties: their front yards. You'll find information on the following topics in this article:

PrivacyFences and hedgesDrivewaysWalkwaysFront entriesLandscape design stylesLawnsInjecting color into the yard with flowersHow to choose a treeDesigning with focal points

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Spring Lawn Care to Restore Your Beautiful Lawn

In spring, your lawn may look vastly different from what it did when you give it the last mowing in the fall. During the winter season, debris can accumulate on the lawn and there may be dead leaves remaining that you missed and there may be animal droppings that have started to rot. All of these can do damage to your lawn if you don't remove them when you start preparing it in spring. This is why spring lawn care is just as essential as the care you give it all summer long.

Carefully examine the grass on the lawn to see if there are any weeds. These can grow rather quickly in the spring and need to be eradicated immediately. Remove the weeds, making sure you get the roots because if you don't they will only grow back. For areas with patches or clumps of weeds, remove the roots and then aerate the soil. This means to poke small holes in the soil so that the oxygen can get to the roots of the grasses or plants. Water the soil and then plant new seedlings. You should do this with all of the lawn and not just in the places where you remove the weeds.

Raking the grass is and essential part of lawn care in the spring. This helps to bring up the dead clippings and rejuvenate the grass so that it will start to grow again. It is also an excellent way to remove thatch cover that may be present. Thatch cover of less than 50% is not a big deal for any lawn, but if there is more than that you do have to take steps to remove it and raking is the best method.

All lawns need water in the spring. You should not think that the soil has received enough water from any snow or rain because most of this moisture evaporates rather than sink into the soil. Experts recommend that you should give your lawn at least 5 inches of water in the spring. Thereafter you should give it at least an inch or water once a week and during the hot summer weather, the lawn needs an inch of water every three days.

The water will help moisten the soil to ensure that any new seedlings have the fertility they need to start growing. You should also check the drainage system to make sure that any excess water does drain away and does not saturate the lawn. In areas where there is a lot of ice and snow during the winter months, watering the lawn early in spring serves another purpose. If you use salt to de-ice walkways or the driveway or if you live close to the street where the city regularly spreads salt to keep it from becoming slippery, water will help desalinate the lawn. Even though you don't spread these chemicals on the lawn, the wind and the spray from the wheels of vehicles on the street will carry them to the lawn.

For more information on spring lawn care and other lawncare related topics, visit the lawn care tips site http://www.HobbyLawncare.com

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Blue Rug Juniper Plants

Plant taxonomy classifies Blue Rug juniper plants under Juniperus horizontalis. The cultivar is 'Wiltonii.'There are numerous types of junipers, and they come in a variety of heights, forms, colors (golds, blues and greens) and textures. But note that not all junipers are suitable for groundcovers. Some junipers are trees, while others fit the more usual image of "shrubs," i.e., plants that stand anywhere from knee-high to chest-high. Such plants are suitable for privacy screens and hedges.

But the focus of this article is the vine-like, low-growing junipers. Where and why would you grow such plants? Although they can be grown on flat land, juniper groundcovers are most prized as plants that can cover a sunny slope, where they serve 3 purposes simultaneously: erosion control, weed control and eliminating the need to mow where footing is treacherous. In addition, many other plants find it difficult to thrive on sunny slopes, where water runs off so quickly that the vegetation is apt to go thirsty. But juniper, on the contrary, tends to be relatively drought-tolerant and craves excellent drainage.

Many varieties besides Blue Rug juniper plants are suitable for groundcovers. A green cultivar of Juniperus horizontalis, namely, 'Prince of Wales,' purportedly grows even more quickly, while another cultivar, 'Mother Lode,' bears greenish-gold foliage. Meanwhile, the 'Pancake' cultivar stays smaller than these, both in terms of height (an amazing 2"-3") and spread (2').

Other species of juniper groundcover are Juniperus procumbens and Juniperus squamata. The 'Blue Star' cultivar of the latter provides another option for those who seek that cool blue foliage. But Blue Star will get taller over time (up to 3') than Blue Rug and doesn't spread as much, proportionately (4').

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Planting Fall Flowers

When homeowners contemplate incorporating fall colors in their landscaping, they normally think of trees or shrubs that bear colorful leaves in the fall. But do not forget about planting fall flowers! Everyone gets the planting bug in spring. But fall flower planting is the mark of the true landscaping enthusiast, who begrudges not even tender annuals such as marigolds a spot on the fall landscape.

Growing fall flowers in the garden will enhance landscaping that is already graced by fall foliage trees. But if your landscaping lacks such trees altogether, planting fall flowers takes on even greater importance. The color display put on by these annuals and perennials will supplement the non-living autumn decorations in your yard, be they carved pumpkins and cornstalks, or witches and scarecrows.

But exactly when do you make fall plantings? You certainly shouldn't wait for autumn, itself, unless you live in a warm climate. Doing so would minimize your enjoyment of the them. On the other hand, even in the North it's usually too hot to plant through the first part of August. So the window of opportunity for planting can be quite small.

Making matters worse is the fact that there's no set date I can give you for planting, even for particular regions. Rather, it's something that has to be played by ear. Some summers, a rainy period arrives in mid-to-late August, providing the perfect opportunity for planting. Other summers, a late August planting would still subject your transplants to excessive heat-stress, and it would be better to wait until early September.

Many homeowners think that a fall flower planting must be limited to hardy species -- plants that will survive the first frost. Such hardy plants are, indeed, useful. In the following pages I mention chrysanthemum flowers, ornamental kales, flowering cabbages and dusty miller, for instance, all of which will provide the landscape with color well after frosty weather arrives. But don't be afraid to mix in some tender annuals, too. Their contribution will be brief, but spectacular.

Marigolds are a good example, because they bloom in the classic autumn colors: orange, yellow, gold, etc. The two most common groups of marigolds are the French marigolds (Tagetes patula) and the African marigolds (Tagetes erecta). In each case the common names are certainly misnomers, as the marigolds are New World plants, native mainly to Central and South America. Just another example of why we use scientific names when referring to plants.

From a financial perspective, you may be questioning the wisdom of planting such tender plants as marigolds as fall flowers. Isn't it a waste of money to plant something that will be dead in a few weeks? It would be a waste of money, if you were getting them at springtime prices. But I'm referring to annuals that can be gotten at bargain prices, which is the subject of Page 2....

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Virginia Creeper

Plant taxonomy classifies Virginia creeper (or "woodbine") as Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Engleman's ivy (Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'engelmannii') is a cultivar (sometimes given as 'engelmanii').

If you live in eastern North America, you probably don't need to grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia in your yard, because chances are good that it's growing nearby anyway, perhaps along a road you drive every day (where you can get your fill of it!).

But if you live somewhere where Parthenocissus quinquefolia is not a native plant, perhaps you've considered growing it (many have). If so, keep some caveats about this vine in mind:

Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a vigorous grower and may get out of hand if not kept in check with equal vigor. Sticky, disk-like appendages on its tendrils adhere to wall siding, making it difficult to remove. Don't grow this on walls unless you wish it to be permanent! Virginia creeper will climb trees and cast shade on their leaves, thus depriving them of needed sunlight. Don't allow it to grow on specimen trees!

Possible solutions to the above problems (in order): Grow Engleman's ivy; this cultivar is considered less vigorous. If you want the look of a wall covered with Virginia creeper, but without the risk, install a trellis near the wall and grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia on the trellis (keeping it well trimmed). Don't allow Virginia creeper to grow on specimen trees! Instead, grow it on garden arbors or on fences.

Choosing the Right Grass

Considerations for choosing the appropriate type of grass include:

Your climate zone:

Whether you live in the South, North or transition zone will determine your need for warm season or cool season grass. Proximity to coastal areas, how much sunlight your yard gets and elevation will further determine what species to use.

What you intend to use it for:

You will need different types of grass or different mixtures of species depending on if your lawn is mainly for aesthetics or if it is used by children and pets. Certain species are better suited to heavy traffic and play, while others can provide a beautiful looking lawn but will not stand up to wear and tear.

What level of maintenance you want to put into it:

Some species are high maintenance and require plenty of water, fertilizer and upkeep, while others are slow growing and drought tolerant and can be mowed infrequently. A low maintenance lawn will not look as lush as a highly manicured lawn, but it is still perfectly acceptable as a lawn.

There are two groups of grass commonly found on lawns: cool season grasses and warm season grasses.

Kentucky Bluegrassthe most common lawn grass in the North and transition zoneexcellent color, texture and densitynot very shade or drought toleranttends to be high maintenancePerennial ryegrassdesirable for its rapid germination ratesexcellent wear tolerance, great in high traffic lawnsused to overseed dormant southern lawns in the winterFine fescueincluding Red fescue and Chewings fescueexcellent shade and drought tolerance

In northern climates and most of the the transition zone a typical lawn will contain a mixture of Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass and fine fescue, allowing the ability to be adapted to your specific conditions.

Bermudagrassdrought resistantprefers full sunSt. Augustinevery popular Southern lawn grass.high tolerance for heatZoysiagrasscommon transition zone grassheat and drought tolerantBahiagrassresistant to drought,disease and insectsdoes well in a variety of soilsCentipede Grasscan grow in low fertility soilslow maintenance requirementsSeashore Paspalumexcellent salt tolerance, popular in coastal regionslow fertility requirements with excellent disease, insect, and drought tolerance

Warm season grasses don't mix well as they end up competing with one another. Which is the best warm season grass is largely determined by soil composition and personal preference. Most warm season grasses turn brown under extended cooler temperatures which may warrant winter overseeding with perennial ryegrass

Read about drought tolerant cool season grasses here

Read about the best drought resistant warm season grasses here

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Tips for Growing Green Lawns

Ogni volta che si guardava iarda del tuo vicino la scorsa estate, forse lei non poteva aiutare ma pensare, "l'erba e sempre piu verde da altra parte". Beh, non disperi. Ho alcuni consigli per la coltivazione di prati verdi, tra cui il corretto uso dei fertilizzanti di prato, che rendera piu facile per voi ottenere alcuni rispetto per il proprio erba. Naturalmente, supponendo che e solo verde erba - ed erba di buon pedigree - che si desidera vedere moquette vostra iarda in splendore smeraldo, controllo delle infestanti rientra necessariamente una qualsiasi raccolta di consigli per la coltivazione di prati verdi. La maggior parte dei proprietari di abitazione intenti a avendo prati verdeggianti tollerera neanche un dente di Leone erbaccia, ne ciuffo di crabgrass, indipendentemente dalla sua vegetazione. Fortunatamente, l'applicazione di fertilizzanti del prato inglese e praticare il controllo delle infestanti possono essere integrate nel lavoretto stesso – se si gioca bene le tue carte!

Cosi perche alcuni cantieri esibire bei prati verdi, mentre in altri la vegetazione sempre sembra essere perdendo a sconfinare marrone spot – piuttosto come una testa di capelli umano cedendo alle ingrigimento? In poche parole, tutto il resto sia lo stesso, il segreto di avere un prato verde sta nel fornire sufficienti elementi nutritivi, praticando il controllo delle infestanti prato efficace e seguendo il regime di falciatura adeguato. Naturalmente, il diavolo e nei dettagli, in cui abbiamo un tuffo sulla pagina 3. Ma mi permetta di iniziare attraverso l'elaborazione su tale clausola di poco dal suono minaccioso, "tutto il resto e lo stesso." Per questo e importante iniziare con un campo di gioco anche.

Prima di tutto, disabuse te stesso di qualsiasi nozione si puo avere che erba e semplicemente erba e che e tutto la e ad esso. In realta, c'e un sacco di piu ad esso. Persone crescere molti tipi differenti di erbe nel loro prati, e queste erbe hanno crescenti esigenze differenti. Molti fattori entrare la selezione di un tipo di erba per un particolare prato.

Uno dei fattori prevalente e il clima locale. La cosiddette "stagione calda" erbe sono ideali per gli Stati piu meridionali degli Stati Uniti, mentre "freddo-stagione" erbe predominano nel nord e nel Canada. Nel mezzo, per gli Stati Uniti orientali, si trova la cosiddetta "transizione zona," composto da zone 6-7. Questa e una zona problematica per la coltivazione di erba: troppo caldo per alcune erbe, troppo fredde per gli altri.

Erbe di freddo-stagione comuni includono: Bentgrasses dei festuche i

Tra le erbe di stagione calda comuni sono: i Bermudagrass Buffalograss Zoysiagrass Centipedegrass Bahiagrass St Augustinegrass

Nota, troppo, che prati non sono sempre composto solo un tipo di erba, ma piuttosto di una miscela di sfruttare i punti di forza di ogni tipo.

I seguenti sono esempi di altri fattori che vanno in selezione del tipo di erba, in aggiunta al clima locale (questi esempi riguardano i prati nella zona settentrionale e nella zona di transizione): zone ombreggiate sono noti ostacoli ad avere prati verdi. Tra le erbe di freddo-stagione, festuche fini sono il piu tollerante di ombra. Aree a prato con traffico pesante piede richiedono un duro erba. Un mix di bluegrass del Kentucky e segale perenne riempira il disegno di legge. Alcune regioni sono piu inclini a siccita rispetto ad altri. La nuove, migliore ceppi di bluegrass del Kentucky sono relativamente siccita-tolleranti.

Ma oltre alla selezione tipo di erba, ci sono altri fattori da considerare per garantire che si avvia con un piano di parita, come vi sforzate di disarcionare il prossimo per vantarsi "prato verde". Questi fattori saranno esplorati a pagina 2....

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Brick patios

A simple design to make it easy to do-it-yourselfers laying brick patios. This brick patio design is easy to build yet elegant, laying the bricks in a model that requires no cutting!Time required: 2 days for a little patioMeasure out the desired area. Rectangular design plans are easier to run multiple curved designs. To make sure you have a perfect rectangle, diagonal 2: measure should be of equal length.Dig the area, at a depth of 8 ". With a level, check that the floor of your excavation runs (1/4 "for running foot) far from home for drainage so water will go away from home and patio.Make a test with the posing your model, to check your measurements. In this way, if your initial measurement was turned off, you can fix it now. There should be approximately 2 "extra around the perimeter.This extra 2 "around the perimeter is the inclusion of outline of bricks (bricks are approximately 2" thick). Keep the bricks on the end, "shoulder to shoulder". Draw them in place with a rubber mallet. The idea is to frame the rectangular area. Remove the bricks that defined as a test run in step # 3 (but keep the brick edging that referred to in point # 4 on the spot). Pour the crushed stone framed in this area, at a depth of 4 ". Tamp down the stone. Set the fabric landscape above the stone, to suppress weeds potential later. Now pour 2 "of sand above the fabric of the landscape. Use a long 2 x 4 as a screed. Starting from one end of the rectangle, this screed leveling along the sand, sand. You want Sandy to finish level 2 "under the tops of the brick edging.Sand excess in step # 7 will then be redistributed to low-lying areas, and you'll end up with an even surface. Tamp the sand. Now is the time to start fixing patio floors brick-for real! Start in a corner, pressing bricks down into the sand. Abut them together as closely as possible. Hitting the bricks with a rubber mallet to settle them in the sand.You want to "paving bricks for this project. In the measurements that I'm giving, I'm assuming 4 "x 8" brick about 2 "thick. Brick pavers come in other formats; but this size is easier to work with.For a design pattern, I'm suggesting the "basket weave" (see link # 2 below, which connects to an illustration of basket weave design pattern). The wicker is elegant but simple and requires no cutting of bricks. Avoiding cutting will save you time, money and frustration!Run the line of a Mason via the form as you proceed, line by line, in laying the bricks. Mason line will serve as a guide for consistency.After laying the bricks, spread some sand on them. With a broom, work this sand into the cracks. Then, with a garden hose, gently spray bricks, sand will settle between the cracks.If the cracks are not yet fully filled, repeat Step # 14. Now you're done!For a graphic illustration of basket weave design pattern, see wicker. This is an attractive design flooring without any cutting of bricks.The key to keeping the project free of pressure is step # 3. For the mathematically-challenged, it is comforting to know--the first time that all the bricks in the form inside the structure and fit tightly.As you lay bricks (# 9-# 13 steps), kneel directly on the sand or bricks. Kneel instead on plywood on top of the brick. Don't want to make the sand irregular or dislodge the bricks.Rectangular plans work best for small courtyards. To soften rigid lines, simply plant gardens along the edges of the container. For larger courtyards, curved designs-but be prepared to cut bricks!A brick which is 4 x 8 x 2 makes this project go more smoothly: in a wickerwork design you want the width of 2 bricks for the length of 1 is equal, so that you can develop a chessboard pattern. shovel clean and rubber lineplywood malletlevel stonelandscape fabricpaving bricksmason crushed to kneel onbroomgarden 2 x 4 hoseone long screed

Decorate, paint, landscape and the road to a House more beautiful.

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Scientific Plant Names

Why do we use those hard-to-pronounce scientific names of plants? Is it out of smugness? Wouldn't it be more "democratic" to use the common monikers (or "nicknames") that everyone can understand, instead of the scientific names of plants?

Ironically, that's just the point: Not everyone can understand what particular specimens are being referred to by those charming old nicknames. The latter vary not only from language to language, but even from region to region. Thus we inject too much confusion into the discussion when we forgo using scientific names of plants in favor of their nicknames. In fact, even within the same region a specimen may well have more than one nickname attributed to it. Or in some cases, none exists at all for a given specimen. Worse yet, two specimens quite unrelated may share the exact same nickname!

It was to combat such confusion that Swedish naturalist Carolus (Carl) Linnaeus (1707-1778) developed what is known as the binomial system for taxonomy -- in other works, the use of scientific names for plants. "Binomial" means that two words are used for classification purposes, and those two words are in Latin (or Latinized, at least). You may remember from History class that Latin was once the universal language of Western scholars. And it is that very universality that is still relied upon to bring some clarity to the business of plant classification, in the form of scientific names for plants. So if you plug Glechoma hederacea, for instance, into the Google search engine, by about the fourth page of results you'll see that some of the entries are in languages other than English. That's universality for you, and that's the beauty of the scientific names of plants.

Speaking of Glechoma hederacea, the weed to which it refers with such clarity provides a wonderful example of the superiority of scientific names of plants over their common counterparts. For Glechoma hederacea has enough nicknames attached to it to make your head spin! One of them is "creeping charlie." But to get some indication of how confusing it can be to forgo scientific names of plants in favor of nicknames, see my article on creeping charlie, which also relates some of the history on this storied yet obscure weed.

But admittedly, the pronunciation of the scientific names of plants is another matter altogether. For the pronunciation of the scientific names of plants can be downright confusing! And the confusion is exacerbated by the fact that, in some cases, there is more than one proper pronunciation for the word. Thus you can go your whole life hearing the certain (and proper) pronunciations of the scientific names of plants, only to encounter other (equally proper) pronunciations that leave you scratching your head.

Below I have compiled a list of 10 scientific names of plants with problematic pronunciations. These entries make the list either because they are widely mispronounced, or because they frustrate us with the dual pronunciations to which I just alluded. Not all of the 10 scientific names of plants below are, strictly speaking, Latin; but where they are not, the word does at least derive from the Latin, which is the source of the confusion:

clematis: CLE-muh-tuhs or cle-MA-tuhs Peony: PE-uh-ne or pe-O-ne Cotoneaster: cuh-TO-ne-AS-tuhr (although even my dictionary gives some legitimacy to the mispronunciation, CAWT-tuhn-ES-tuhr) Poinsettia: poyn-SEH-tuh or poyn-SEH-te-uh (Although we constantly hear the incorrect poynt-SEH-tuh.) Chamomile: KAM-uh-mil or KAM-uh-mel achillea: A-kuh-LE-a or a-KIH-le-uh lamium: LAY-me-uhm Lupine: LU-puhn (Although there is a word with the exact same spelling, pronounced LU-pin, which means "pertaining to a wolf"; go figure!) Forsythia: fohr-SIH-the-a (The plant is not "for Cynthia" -- it's for all of us!) Kalanchoe: My favorite, with its 4 pronunciations, all of which are correct-- KA-luhn-KO-e kuh-LANG-ko-e KAL-uhn-cho kuh-LAN-cho

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Swimming Pool Landscaping

Privacy, safety, beauty and convenience are some of the considerations to keep in mind when landscaping around swimming pools.

Plants provide beauty and privacy around a swimming pool. They soften the harsh lines of swimming pool equipment and help swimming pools to blend more naturally with the surrounding environment. If you grow plants that are tall enough, they will form privacy screens around the pool area. But plants must be chosen wisely. Strive for low-maintenance plants. For instance, you don't wan't large deciduous trees around a swimming pool, as you'll end up fishing all those leaves out of the water! Even needle-bearing evergreen trees can be messy. A good alternative is a broadleaf evergreen such as holly. Avoid fruit trees: not only are they messy, but the fruits attract bees. And as beautiful as flowers are, be aware that they, too, can be bee-magnets. Even worse, plants with invasive root systems can damage a swimming pool over the years.

Fencing around swimming pools is a must when small children are present, for the purpose of safety. The right fence design can also offer you privacy. If you don't like the look of a fence, soften it by training vines to grow over it; the vines will enhance privacy to boot. Another safety feature around pools is outdoor lighting.

Patios or pool decks provide not only beauty, but safety for swimming pool areas. Climbing out of the swimming pool, you can be assured of a slip-resistant surface to land on with a scarred concrete patio. If you opt for a brick patio instead, be sure to keep the surface of the bricks rough (you'll have to clean moss off patios periodically). For convenience around swimming pools, nothing beats a closed gazebo in which you can change into/out of your clothes and relax in the shade. Outdoor furniture also affords convenience around your swimming pool, as do barbecue equipment and outdoor furnaces.

And you'd better keep some sunscreen in that gazebo....

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Photo of Non-Poison Sumac

In fact, I regard the non-poisonous varieties of sumac, although sometimes regarded as weeds, to be potentially desirable landscaping elements. They furnish outstanding fall foliage, without posing any health risks (unlike poison sumac). But the reputation of these delightful sumac shrubs has been smeared through their association with their nefarious cousin -- poison sumac. Once you identify poison sumac, though, you should have no reason to fear non-poison sumacs.

And one of the easiest ways to distinguish between the two is via the seeds. As you have already seen, the seeds of poison sumac are nothing at all like those of non-poison sumac. The latter grow in the red, fuzzy seedtuft shown above. This seedtuft looks rather feathery from a distance and is soft to the touch. The seeds are tightly packed in the seedtuft.

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Pictures of Poison Ivy -- Picture of Fall Foliage

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How to Kill Dandelions

What makes dandelion removal from lawns so difficult? Well, dandelions (see picture at right for identification) enjoy the best of both worlds. Above-ground, their seeds ride the wind currents, poised to drop into the slightest opening in your lawn to propagate the species. Meanwhile, below-ground, they strike down a taproot up to 10" long. Pulling the taproot as a means of dandelion removal is problematic. Thick but brittle, the taproot easily fractures -- and any fraction of the taproot that remains in the ground will regenerate.

If you're hard-headed enough to want to try to pull these weeds, despite the difficulty just mentioned, here's how to proceed:

To facilitate weeding, water the lawn first (weeds are more easily extricated from wet soil). Make an incision into the soil, down along the side of the taproot, using a knife, screwdriver or similar tool (tools designed specifically for dandelion removal can be found in home improvement stores). Wiggle the tool to loosen the taproot Using the ground as a fulcrum, try to pry up the weed. Get a good grip on the leaves (as many of them as you can close your hand over) and use them as your "handle" on which to tug. Give the weed a gentle tug to see if the taproot is yielding. If the taproot is yielding, remove the dandelion weed from the soil. Otherwise, make further incisions around the taproot, wiggle and continue to tug gently at the leaves.

I'm not a proponent of using herbicides when an alternative exists that works just as well. But killing dandelions is a case where one might consider using herbicides, despite one's usual disinclination to do so. As mentioned earlier, all it takes is leaving a fraction of the root behind, and your efforts at pulling dandelions will have gone for naught! Furthermore, as the following list (hardly exhaustive) of herbicides for killing dandelions illustrates, not all "herbicides" are chemical mixtures bought at the store.

Examples of Herbicides for Dandelions

Vinegar Weed-B-Gon (brand name), with the active ingredient, 2,4-D Roundup (brand name), with the active ingredient, glyphosate

It's the acetic acid in vinegar that gives it herbicidal potential. The higher the percentage of acetic acid in the vinegar, the better. Vinegar used for culinary purposes is relatively low (5%) in acetic acid, but you can boil it down to increase its strength prior to the application.

If you use either vinegar or Roundup, apply the herbicide directly onto the leaves of the weeds, since these herbicides are non-selective and would harm your grass. By contrast, Weed-B-Gon is selective (it targets broadleaf weeds) and won't harm grass, making it a popular choice for killing dandelions in the lawn.

When to Apply Herbicides on Dandelions

Early fall is the best time to kill dandelions with herbicides. Dandelions are broadleaf, herbaceous perennials. Since their leaves die back in winter, it is through their roots that the plants live on. In early fall, nutrients are transferred from the leaves down to the roots. This transfer, which continues until the first killing frost, presents you with an opportunity to hit them where it really hurts! Herbicides applied during this time are absorbed by the leaves and passed on to the roots, following the same path down as the nutrients.

For at least 2-3 days prior to applying herbicides, don't mow the lawn. The bigger the surface area of the dandelion leaves, the more effective your application can be. Likewise, following the application of herbicide, wait at least 2-3 days before mowing, to allow time for the herbicide to be transferred to the roots.

Promoting lawn health is the best method of dandelion control. Don't think of your lawn grass as a passive partner, which has to be rescued from weeds after the fact. If managed properly, your lawn can compete effectively against weeds, obviating the need for laborious dandelion removal. Follow these lawn-care tips:

Leave grass clippings on your lawn. They will act as a mulch to prevent weed seeds from germinating. The benefits of grass clippings to your lawn, under the right conditions, are numerous. Mow "high", leaving the lawn grass at a height of 2 1/2"-3". This will allow the lawn grass to "protect its own turf" better, depriving weeds of the light they need. Don't let bare spots remain uncovered for long, else you're just inviting the invasion of opportunistic weeds. In the fall, fill in those bare spots by overseeding.

All of the foregoing remarks assume that your approach to dandelions will be hostile. But that needn't be the case. Page 2 is written for those willing to consider a more tolerant approach to dandelions....

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Lantana Plants

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Stella de Oro Daylily

Plant taxonomy classifies "Stella de Oro" daylilies under the daylily genus, Hemerocallis, which derives from the Greek, hemera, "day," plus kallos, "beauty" -- a reference to the ephemeral but beautiful nature of its bloom. The cultivar is "Stella de Oro."

Stella de Oro daylily is a nightmare for linguistic purists, whether we're talking in terms of common names or scientific names of plants. The confusion begins with the word, "daylily" itself, which has a second legitimate spelling: "day lily."

But matters get worse when we discuss the plant's scientific name. Technically, it's Hemerocallis 'Stella de Oro.' I say, "technically," because that's the name given it by its original hybridizer. The original hybridizer of a hybrid enjoys the honor of naming it. In this case, the honor fell to one Walter Jablonski, who proceeded (whether intentionally or not) to carry this "hybrid" thing a bit too far....

You see, "Stella de Oro" literally translates, "star of gold." Superficially, it looks either Spanish or Italian. Problem is, it's neither one -- not in its entirety, at least. "Stella" is "star" in Italian, and "de oro" is "of gold" in Spanish -- but not vice versa. So what we have here, essentially, is a hybridization of language to describe a hybrid plant. It's "Spitalian!"

Not surprisingly, then, this name is commonly mangled in every imaginable way, including as:

"Stella d'Oro daylily" "Stella Doro daylily" "Stella d Oro daylily"

"Stella d'Oro daylily" has, in fact, become such a common misspelling that it has virtually taken over as the preferred spelling for the plant. In part, what seems to be happening here is that people are correcting Jablonski's flawed formation. They are rendering the plant name in proper Italian, where "star of gold" would, indeed, be written as stella d'oro.